Liuwa is ....
Liuwa is a special park indeed. It attracts
around 400 visitors a year and they come for the migration (mid-Oct-Mid Nov). We
were number 39-41 and maybe the 6th group for 2008. We had the park to ourselves
for one day and then a few more visitors joined our camp. We stayed at Katuyana
Camp since it was expected to have the first migrants. Indeed we saw groups of
up to 70-100 wildbeast and smaller 10-20 zebras at a time. The primary predators
are hyenas, and they are very approachable. In Oct 2008 4 lions are supposed to
be moved to the park, and this should be be interesting for the hyenas and
visitors but less so for the communities that live within and around the park.
The density of wildlife decreased from
north to south since it was early in the migration season. Birdlife is quite
good considering the park is mostly a plain that is flooded in the rainy season.
Park accessibility is somewhat challenging. The road from Mongu
to Kalabo (with about 25KM of flood plain to cross) takes about 3 hours. The
drive from Kalabo to Katuyana takes about 2 hours and it has some deep sands. A
high clearance vehicle is recommended, although we encountered a South African
group that made it with trailers and with a M-class Mercedes (but apparently
they got stuck in some places). The good news is that given the Zambezi flood
plain, Liuwa will remain remote for a decade or more to come.
In summary, while Liuwa is highly recommended for beauty,
remoteness and uniqueness, the addition of the lions will make it more
attractive (mind you, lions were wiped out by the communities around the park 20 years ago).